#Black paper to cover walls install

Installed 3 1/2 inches of Kraft paper backed fiberglass insulation (R-13) between studs and slashed the Kraft paper with a razorblade to allow any moisture trapped in wall to escape.Installed 2' by 4' stud walls against the white styrofoam.Why 2'? It was on sale for a better 'great' price-about $9 a sheet in 2006. Overlapped 1/2 polystyrene with 2 inch WHITE expanded styrofoam (R-8) HORIZONTALLY with FOAMBOARD adhesive on the TOP half of the wall only.Why 1/2 inch? It was on sale for a great price-$8 per sheet in 2006. 1/2 inch blue extruded polystyrene styrofoam (R-5) glued top to bottom of basement wall vertically and directly to walls with FOAMBOARD adhesive.(I use a dehumidifier in the warmer months as a precaution.) Seven years later my basement is dry and the walls are dry. I wouldn't insulate my NEXT basement this way, but this is what I did in 2006, one year after my NEW house was built. I've had builders recommend vapor barriers -and I'm sorry to say, they may build a great house above the ground, they don't know what they are talking about when it comes to basements!!!! If you don't agree with my method below, please take the following advice: DO NOT USE A VAPOR BARRIER on EITHER SIDE OF THE basement wall. I've spent HOURS and HOURS on the Internet (actually days and days) investigating basement insulation techniques. Where the framing meets the floor, I'd be tempted to use either a vapor barrier, a foam weather stripping (it comes in a roll and is the width of the framing), and/or pressure treated lumber with nails designed for pressure treated framing.

Therefore, in your situation, a house wrap product is probably best to prevent damage from any moisture in the walls from getting absorbed by the insulation and wood framing. This allows the walls to breath and prevents trapped moisture. Tyvek and other house wraps are different in that they block liquid water, but not water vapor in the air, from passing through. However, on your basement wall, there doesn't appear to be anything that would allow trapped moisture to escape. When used on a roof, there are typically soffit and ridge vents to keep the underside of the roof dry, rather than trapping moisture in the attic. Tar paper is water proof and could easily act like a second vapor barrier.

#Black paper to cover walls install

If you install a vapor barrier on both sides, moisture can become trapped inside the insulation and result in mold/mildew. The vapor barrier on the conditioned (heated) side of the wall is there to prevent warm moist air from passing into the insulation and condensing on the cooler side. The main concern with vapor barriers and fiberglass insulation is preventing condensation and trapped moisture in the insulation that could result in mold and mildew. If we use tar paper, do we just overlap it or do we tape it much like you do the seams of Tyvek? Do we go right to the floor with the paper or, like with the insulation, do we keep it a foot off the ground? Any help, suggestions are greatly appreciated. studding (16 inch on centre and insulating and maybe installing the drywall but not taping and finishing). We are going to get some prices by contractors but want to do some work ourselves to keep costs down so of course the behind the scene work is what we want to do - i.e. We would love to do the spray foam and not have to worry about all the vapour barrier and such but we are out of budget - Styrofoams seems like a lot of work by the time you have to cut each piece. We plan on using fiberglass batt insulation because of costs (we are retired and limited income). We have been told to apply Tyvek or tar paper to the walls, stud, then vapour barrier and drywall. We are going to be redoing our basement which was done in the 60's and very cold.